Coffee with Land of Coffee! Chikmagalur!!!
We made our trip to
Chikmagalur in Jan 2016. Our plan was to stay in a homestay for a day and see
Mullayangiri, Hebbey Falls and Baba Budangiri hills on the next day.
We traveled to Birur
from Bangalore via train. It was a 3 hours long morning journey in Hubballi
express which started at 6 am in Bangalore and reached Birur by 9.30. The train
route was mostly through rural areas with farms and small hills. We had our breakfast
at Preethi Canteen in Birur. It was a small food outlet with considerable
crowd, probably because it was Sunday. We took a bus to Chikmagaluru from Birur
bus stand. There were frequent buses in the route. It was a 90 minutes journey
through areca nut and pepper farms in a hilly background. There were hardly few
villages in between the two places.
We reached
Chikmagaluru by 12. And the place was quite different from my imagination. I
expected the town to be a typical hill station. But Chikmagaluru looked more of
a town in plains. The climate was little hot for January and the town is very
active with people everywhere.
We headed directly to
our home stay in Mudigere called Nesting Grounds in a cab. It was a bumpy ride
through Coffee Plantations. Nesting Grounds is owned by Mr.Nandu and is located
amidst 50 acres of his coffee plantation in a hill.
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A View of our guest house |
The guest house given
to us had a dining area and a hall in the floor level and two bedrooms with
attached bathroom and a hall in the below floor level. The house has a
beautiful view through the windows.
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Garden! |
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Lovely view from the house |
The house is well maintained and every
minute detail is taken care with utmost care. There is a television and other
indoor games option to pass the time. But we spent our time exploring the
plantation.
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Relaxing area and sunset view point! |
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TV room and Play area |
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One of our Bedrooms |
Immediately upon
arrival we had our lunch prepared by Mr.Parameswar. It was a mix of Malnad
cuisine and typical south Indian cuisine like Chicken Briyani. It was a tasty
lunch. Post lunch we went on a long walk on the hills. It was coffee
harvesting season and we could see workers bringing the collected beans to the
storage area. We have seen a beautiful sunset from the house, tasting our
evening coffee. Once the place is dark, we spent our time inside the house
playing carom and business. And when it was time for dinner, Parameswar brought
tasty chicken gravy made in Malnad style, roti, rice, rasam and other items. The
dinner was very delicious. The place was so dark and calm in the night. And the
night was reasonably cold. We had a good sleep in our rooms.
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Way to the hills! |
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Coffee plants |
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A Scenic View |
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Tall & age old trees everywhere.. |
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Its Green, Green & Green |
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Beautiful sunset from the house |
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Past sunset |
The second day of our
Chikmagaluru trip started with a guided tour inside the Coffee plantation by
Mr.Nandu. He showed us many varieties of trees and enlightened us about history
of Coffee, its life cycle and challenges
of coffee plantations. We were accompanied and guarded by Nandu’s 7 dogs.
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On a early morning walk. |
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A walk through steep hill, full of coffee plants |
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Coffee and some pepper around |
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Arabica |
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Wild Jack fruit tree |
After coming back to the house, we had our breakfast. Akki roti with vegetable kurma,
appam with coconut chutney, bread, butter and jam filled our tummy. We had
special coffee after our breakfast. The house offered us a pleasant stay and
wonderful hospitality by Nandu and his team. And Nandu offered us complimentary
coffee powder. And we also tasted the local made wines from banana, pedal
leaves, ginger and coffee. We chose to buy a bottle of banana wine. We didn’t
want to leave the place. But due to time constraints, we decided to leave and begin
our sightseeing around Chikmagaluru.
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Bye Bye to Coffee plantations.. |
We directly headed to
Mullayangiri hills. It is the highest peak in South India. The road leads to
the hill top offered wonderful view of Chikmagaluru hills.
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Enroute Mullayangiri |
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Way full of view points |
Reaching the peak
involves around 700m of trek through the steps. The sight from the peak is mind
blowing and one could get a 360 degree view of the hills. There is a small
temple-mutt in top of the hill. It is a must visit place in Chikmagaluru.
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Small Trek on the hills |
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Way to the top of the hills |
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Temple at the hill peak |
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View from the top |
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View of the other side of the peak |
The roads to Hebbey
Falls was closed by Forest department. So we headed to baba budangiri. There is
a shrine named after sufi saint Baba Budan. There is an interesting story for naming
the mountains after him. Coffee was originated in Ethiopia and Spread in Yemen in
Arabia. Arabians strictly controlled the coffee trade and traded only the
roasted beans or powder. But Baba Budan while coming back to India after his
holy travel to Mecca brought 7 coffee beans to India and sowed it in the
Chikmagaluru Mountains. And that’s the beginning of Coffee plantations in
India. We visited the shrine, which is actually inside a cave. And the rocks
are coated with sandal. So the entire place was gave a divinely feel.
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Bliss! |
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White clouds covering Green Mountains |
There is
a small falls called Manikyadhara falls around 4 km from the Baba Budan shrine.
The place offered beautiful view of western ghats. There were dozen shops
selling snacks, herbs and local produces. Visitors have to be little careful
with the monkeys near the falls.
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The mountains says that we, humans are so small in front of them! |
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Manikyadhara Falls |
After Manikyadhara
falls we directly headed to chikmagaluru with few stoppings in between.
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Its a treat to eyes.. |
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On the way back.. |
We had
a quick dinner and taken last bus to Shringeri. We couldn’t cover many places
like Kemmangudi, Cofee musuem and couldn’t dine at Hotel Mayura as we planned
due to time shortage and leaving those places for our next visit to
Chikmagaluru.
Bye Bye Chikmagaluru.. Lets meet again..